30 Octombrie 2010 - Presa scrisa

The Madison Courier

October 30, 2010

Sunday, Oct. 24, 2010: We have arrived in Romania! Jan Vetrhus and I, after about 12 hours in the air plus four hours in the Paris airport, landed at Bucharest's charming Otopeni Airport. I was greeted with smiles and hugs by Catalina Preda, our local contact and coordinator of the "Beautiful Romania" project 





Between the two of us, Jan is the experienced traveler. Her passport is so full, she was worried where they would put the Romania stamp. She is a frequent flyer, passing through the gates quickly, calmly smiling at the attendants and security people. 



Our overlay at the Charles DeGaulle Airport in Paris was long. It gave us time to explore this amazing architectural edifice. It is a tribute to the art of flying, in my opinion. 



After arriving at our destination, we had a brief driving tour of old and new Bucharest, courtesy of our hosts, Jan and I checked in at our hotel, the Minerva, right in the heart of historic downtown Bucharest. Sunday evening we set out on an adventurous exploring walk through the older city. Bucharest is fascinating, reflecting the sometimes grand, sometimes violent and always interesting history of this country. Romania's history is many-layered. 



Day Two



Bucharest is a city of layers. Catalina Preda was our guide. Comfortably settled in a late model BMW sedan, we gaped out the windows at ornate architecture from the mid- to late 19th century, alongside massive rows of Communist-era buildings and sleek modern edifices. Some remnants of the city's medieval and Renaissance past remain, but most of the historic buildings in the city recall the extravagant French-influenced Second Empire and classical revival styles which gave the city the nickname "Little Paris" before World War I. Ornate gods, goddesses and cupids gaze down from the cornices decorated with scrolled brackets. They reign over swarms of automobiles on the major arteries as well as swiftly walking pedestrians on the side streets. 



Romanians are still angry about the Communist era which they endured after World War II. The country suffered losses during the war and then came under Soviet control. Between 1965 and 1989, the dictator Nicolae Ceausescu destroyed much of the city's historic architecture and replaced it with huge edifices. Catalina brings us to Central Civic - the Civic Center - to take a look. The scale is mind-numbing. An entire historic quarter of the city was razed to build Ceausescu's Palace of the Parliament, a megalomaniac building which dominates a hillside plaza. Beyond, as far as the eye can see, Communist-style high-rise apartments flank a broad boulevard decorated with trees and fountains. Perhaps it is because of this wholesale destruction that Romanians are now so dedicated to saving the heritage that remains. To my great pleasure, there is still much to see. 



Jan and I are anxious to roam in a more leisurely fashion. Off we go on a walk to find a local restaurant and more closely examine the architecture. Along the way we hope to find the oldest remaining part of the city. Of course we get lost. And it begins to get cold. We trudge back to the hotel for a better map and warm coats. Undaunted, we head out again in search of food, drink and conviviality. The restaurant that was recommended is called "La Mama," but not as a tribute to "Mama Mia,", the movie, or the trendy New York restaurant of the '60s and '70s. No, this "La Mama" is a tribute ... or so we are told ... to cooking so wonderful it's just like your mama's. Hmmm. Still walking and no restaurant, my stomach is growling and I am ready to do something desperate. I have a hunch that the younger generation of Bucharestians can speak English. Most of the older folk do not. And there are scores of handsome couples all around us, taking in the night. 



Someone somewhere is enjoying a good meal and that's where I want to be. I accost a young couple on the street, smiling sweetly, and ask, "Do you speak English?" Oh, joy. I discover that they are fluent in my language and happy to help. We are directed to our destination. After a few wrong turns, more talking to young couples and more walking, we arrive at "La Mama." It is a large, multilevel restaurant with lots of English-speaking wait-staff who graciously seat us. Perhaps it was the invigorating walk, or just plain hunger, but the food seemed to taste much better than my mama's. 



Day Three



Today is the first day of the conference. We were greeted by glorious sun. 



The conference is the rationale for my trip. Catalina Preda, coordinator for the "Beautiful Romania" project, has invited me speak at this two-day conference on the economics of preservation. It is sponsored by the United Nations Development Program (Romania), the Romanian Ministry of Culture and National Heritage, the Ministry of Regional Development & Tourism and others. In addition, Catalina and I hope to start a "Heritage Cities" exchange project with Madison and one or more of the cities involved in her project.



The conference is located at the Romanian Ministry of Culture and National Heritage - a beautiful site. The lobby is decorated with a full- size poster that features the conference title and date above an image of a richly decorated building façade from Bucharest's exuberant late-19th century period. The title and materials declare that it is an international conference." Indeed it is true, and I am in heady company. My talk about Madison, Indiana, will take place after lunch.



A beautiful dark-haired woman, the U.N. Ambassador to Romania, opens the proceedings after brief remarks from other officials. "Mrs. Ambassador" addresses the gathering in English. 



The ambassador urges partnerships, speaking with grace, intelligence and wisdom. She is followed by the City Architect of Bucharest and an intense young man, " Nico" Moldovan, the city planner for Alba Iulia. More about him later. 



After a coffee break, the first session begins. We hear from Jeremy Staniforth, a distinguished Brit who describes a model "magic circle" of integration between rural heritage and sustainable development. Staniforth is, among other things, an adviser for Romania on behalf of Prince Charles. Then Donovan Rypkema speaks. The only other American on the program, he argues brilliantly for the economic advantages of historic preservation. 



How can I follow these amazing people?



I will be the second speaker in the session after lunch. We presenters are formally seated on a dais, each with a microphone and, like the U.N., our names prominently displayed. The conference is being recorded live on streaming video for those who could not attend. 



In addition to telling Madison's story, I have a new agenda: Wake up the crowd, be lively, make them laugh and pay attention. 



As my introduction is read and I move to the PowerPoint position, I am on high alert and determined. Thank goodness that Madison is beautiful and that my pictures are lovely. While I talk, I am watching the drowsy crowd. Eyes are opening. A few smiles can be seen. I am nearly half done as I notice one man who is still in a deep nod. Nearly all of the rest of the room is alert, most are smiling and some have even laughed at my wry comments. But this one is stubborn. I direct more energy his way. Suddenly and with a start he jerks awake, looking either way with a sheepish grin. Success! The audience rewards me with applause and later, with many, many kind things to say about Madison. Ultimately, people are grateful to be stimulated.



Day Four



Today is the second day of the conference. The rain is pouring down outside and we are happy to be cozy inside, listening to interesting information. My ears are filled with the translator's version of our speaker's talk. Most are in Romanian.



Last evening, Jan and I once more sought our way to the Old City. Parts of this section of the city date to medieval times, we are told, although most of the buildings look like early- or mid-19th century. Still, the curved streets lined with old, two-story buildings feel much older. After the excitement of the first day of the conference, we are looking for a great place to drink and eat. Just when it seems as though our journey will be in vain, we come around a promising corner. There are no cars on the street. It is past sunset and a nearly full moon has risen. In its light, a ragged, old woman sits on the corner cuddled by four dogs. She is in front of an apparent garden surrounded by a sturdy, antique iron fence. We turn left at the corner and are greeted by a miraculous sight. Free-standing within the fenced garden is an ancient orthodox church. The small structure, painted white, glistens marble-like in the moonlight. Above, painted icons look down, oblivious to the follies of mere humans. 



The sign on the corner, considerately written in Romanian, French and (ah, yes) English, tells us that this is San Domitriu, one of the oldest churches in Bucharest. Jan has been "collecting" these ancient churches on our travels. This is one of the best we have seen. Entering, we stand in awe before the gold and painted screen with its multiple icons, all clustered in such a small space. As we leave, we are offered a frosted waffle cookie. Jan asks, "Cost?" But it is free, a gift to us in honor of the saint's feast day on the morrow.



But enough reminiscing. The conference proceedings wind up in the afternoon with a "round table" discussion led by Donovan Rypkema and his assistant, Caroline Cheng.

Afterward, Jan and I join Donovan and Caroline for a walk to one of the most impressive early- 19th century mansions in Bucharest. The former residence of a wealthy family, it is now home to special parties, catered here in grand style. All of the speakers are the guests of the conference sponsors. Our meal takes place in a formal dining room with a spectacular stained glass window. The five-course meal is served beautifully, along with generous helpings of our choice of wines. Romanians know how to eat and drink.



We walk back to the hotel in the cool night, ready for tomorrow's adventures. We will be off across the • Next week: The rest of Camille's and Jan's journey.

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